2016.08.01 - Symmetrical No More
Charles Stock thought in feet and inches. Not half inches, but whole inches and all the primary dimensions on Shoal Waters follow this general rule.The foredeck is 36" long. The side and aft decks are 9" wide. The distance from the transom to the cabin is 60". The distance from the stem to the samson post is 18". The outboard part of the bowsprit is 48" long. The top of the companionway is 24" the bottom 18". And so it goes on. There are some smaller dimensions such as the width and height of the toe rail but by and large all the dimensions are in whole inches and this is very convenient since it makes things simple when lining things up on the two sides of the hull. But it turns out that whilst most of the boat is symmetrical, parts of it are not as I found out today.
Having replaced some temporary steel screws with brass ones and having done some sanding to remove sharp edges of epoxy I looked at the main part of the cabin. One side will be the galley and the width of the gap between the centreboard case and the galley itself is governed by the width of the milk crate. The crate measures 14" so 15" is what I've allowed for the gap. I cut and carefully put in place but did not fit two uprights under the forward edge of the bridge deck and then stood back to admire my handiwork. Looks good as you can see below, but something bothered me about it.
You see, the side decks will intrude into the cabin space by 9" and there will be small storage lockers for 6" below the side deck. That is going to leave a seat 10" wide to sit on effectively and that is just a little too narrow for comfort especially with my backside. So I went back to my photos of Shoal Waters and looked carefully again. In just one shot can I see clearly both the port and starboard sides and the starboard side is smaller than the port side.
Now the starboard side will be for sitting and so the gap between the centreboard case and the seat itself must not be smaller than the length of my foot which is 10" more or less. So I measured out 12", to be on the safe side, and put the upright in this new position. This will give me an effective seat with of 13" which is much better. So up to this point all the work on Naiad has been symmetrical but no longer.
Having sorted out that little conundrum I put a coat of epoxy on the bottom of the table top.
The two symmetrical uprights.
And now the two asymmetrical uprights.